The Science of Black Hair: Protein/Moisture Balance Basics

In my previous post, I spoke about proteins and briefly mentioned the importance of keeping a good protein/moisture balance. Well, good news...just in case you're a visual person like me :), here is a great video demonstration on Protein/Moisture Balance.  This video is by the author of The Science of Black Hair Audrey Davis-Sivasothy.  This is a great video which is very informative. Happy Watching...

Protein/Moisture Balance

Recognizing and Exploring Proteins

Here are some ingredients to look for if you want to know if a product has protein/s:

1. Anything that starts with the word Hydrolyzed 
2. Silk Amino Acids
3. Soybean or Soja (Oil or Seed Extract)
4. Milk Protein (Coconut Milk, etc.)  
5. Blue Green Algae
6. Keratin
7. Collagen
8. Rice Protein
9. Wheat Protein
10. Oat Protein
11. Corn Protein
12. Vegetable Protein
13. Elastin

To get more information on what each protein does, click HERE, HERE and HERE (Skip to 4:45 on video).

My Experience w/ Proteins

BG "S" hair has a love/hate relationship with proteins while BG "M" hair loves proteins.  I have learned which proteins BG "S" hair absolutely hates and which ones her hair can tolerate.

Tolerable Proteins to Date
Vegetable Protein (Shea Moisture Yucca & Baobab Anti-Breakage Masque)
Hydrolyzed Keratin (Nothing But Intense Healing Masque)
Hydrolyzed Corn Starch (Curls Coconut Sublime Conditioner)

Not So Tolerable Proteins to Date
Hydrolyzed / Soy Protein
Silk Protein
Silk Amino Acids
Soybean (Soja) Protein/ Oil

There was a time when I attempted to avoid anything with protein in it for BG "S" hair but I have learned that protein isn't a bad thing and is just as important as moisture.  This is where the Protein/Moisture Balance comes into play.  So, I am going to take a step out and try one of my old favorites on BG "S" again (SM Curl & Style Milk)...stay tuned. Update: The SM Curl & Curl Milk is a "NO-GO" for BG "S"!  I won't be re-visiting this product for BG "S" anytime soon.  It made her hair so crunchy and dry!

What is your relationship with protein?

INGREDIENT CHECK: Panthenol? What is It?

Panthenol is a very popular ingredient in skin and hair care products which is a derivative of vitamin B5 products.  It is a humectant, emollient, glossifier, detangler and moisturizing agent. It is highly water soluble and is also easily removable with mild plant-derived oils or via conditioner cleansing (co-washing).  Panthenol can be found in shampoos, conditioners, deep conditioners, leave-ins, hair lotions, etc.

Excerpt from Naturally Curly:

{...Panthenol is capable of penetrating the cuticle and entering the hair shaft as well, where it aids in moisture retention and provides volume.

It is important to note that sometimes penetration of the shaft by ingredients can create a rough cuticle surface and lead to frizz, due to swelling of the hair shaft. This may not occur for everyone and is dependent upon several factors, including porosity of the hair and the amount of the ingredient used in the product. It is a potential undesirable effect, so keep this in the back of your mind when using a product containing the ingredient.}

Ding, Ding, Ding...something hit me!  I have been currently battling with BG "S" hair being ridiculously frizzy and couldn't figure out why and then it all made sense.  I have been using a new leave-in with panthenol and although I love the product and it leaves the hair super soft and moisturized it would also be super frizzy, that's a big NO-NO!  And then I thought about past products that yielded frizzy hair and they all had one common ingredient...Panthenol.  This is obviously not something that will happen to everyone just like with other ingredients but just in case you may be experiencing a similar issue, check the ingredient list on your products!

So for now, I will discontinue using I will monitor "leave-in products" with panthenol and pay close attention to how the hair reacts since I can't completely avoid it as it is in most leave-ins (especially the good ones, lol).  Experimentation and listening to your hair is the best way to find out what works well on your own hair.  I'll keep you guys posted...

FYI..this is not to say panthenol is bad because it isn't, just for you to be educated on what may work or not work for your hair!

What have been your experience with Panthenol?

Our 1st Challenge of the Year: KLK 2013 Protective Style Challenge

For those of you who don't know we have been participating in a protective style challenge hosted by KandyLand Kurls since January.  The challenge started January 7 and runs thru March 4th...we are still in full effect, with a couple weeks to go!  We have really enjoyed the challenge as there are many benefits to wearing your hair in protective styles! Here are our weekly submission photos to date:

WEEK 1  - Two-Strand Twists w/ Flat Twists on the side

 WEEK 2- Chunky Two-Strand Twists

 WEEK 3- Mini Two-Strand Twists (I did a little dusting of the ends)

 WEEK 4- Mini Two-Strand Twists (from Week 3 after washing)

 WEEK 5- African Threading

WEEK 6- Chunky Twists

WEEK 7- Mini Two-Strand Twists

WEEK 8- Mini-Two Strand Twists (From Week 7)

Product Review: Oyin Hair Dew

Oyin Hair Dew

Cost: $13.00 (www.oyinhandmade.com) or (www.curlmart.com)

Size: 8 oz.

Scent: Sweet like Dessert
Consistency: Rich Creamy & Thick (lotion)

What They Say:
This creamy, conditioning leave-in is light enough for every day. It's great on 'naked' hair immediately after a cleanse, or as a way to reinvigorate tired hair all the way through your hair care cycle.

Looking for a product to wake up and moisturize your second-day hair? Looking for a way to make your hair pliable enough to re-style without a full rinse? Just want to refresh your coils and curls and give them a shot of moisture before sealing? This leave-in is your answer! Plays well with other Oyin leave-ins and stylers.

What I Say:
First of all, the smell is amazing!  I've used this product as a leave-in and moisturizer yielding good results both ways.  It leaves the hair looking healthy and shiny.  It doesn't provide much slip as a leave-in.  It also absorbs nicely and provides softness and moisture but the moisture isn't lasting for my daughters' Type 4 hair. This product is also very light.

Ingredients:
Purified water, castor oil, olive oil, organic aloe vera gel, behentrimonium methosulfate (emulsifier), coconut oil, olive squalane, optiphen (preservative), cetyl alcohol, fragrance, and love!

**** I give this product a 4 out of 5 Baby Curls****

Product Review: Jessicurl Deep Conditioning Treatment

JessiCurl Deep Conditioning Treatment

Cost: $16.95 (www.jessicurl.com) or (www.curlmart.com)

Size: 8 oz.

Scent: No Fragrance (Available in 3 scents, I opted for no fragrance)
Consistency: Rich Creamy & Thick

What They Say:
...It used to be called “Weekly Deep Conditioning Treatment” but then I heard from more and more curlies that they were using it every day, and some were even using it as a leave in. Who am I to limit how much you use your favorite conditioner, right? Thus, I dropped “Weekly” and just left it at Deep Conditioning Treatment. It’s thick, it’s rich, it’s moisturizing, it doesn’t build up – it really is the ideal formula for restoring moisture to dry curly hair. It also works great as a shaving cream – that even includes bald men! :)

Deep conditioning treatments with heat really moisturize and strengthen the hair, and they're just plain fun to do. This treatment works best with a plastic cap and left on for 20 minutes. This thick conditioner uses cocoa butter and shea butter to add some serious moisture to your hair. Great for all Hair Types!

What I Say:
OMG, this is one of the best moisturizing deep conditioners I have used, I love this stuff!  It made BG "S" hair super soft and so easy to detangle, it pretty much melted the tangles away and for Type 4 hair that is everything!  I used this deep conditioner on pre-cleansed hair (before washing but after spraying with a little ACV mixed with water) and placed a bag & cap on it for about 60 minutes. The hair felt very conditioned after removing the bag & cap and more importantly after rinsing.  It penetrated the hair nicely and provided some much needed moisture and softness. I believe I have found our staple moisturizing deep conditioner and I will be ordering more (with a fragrance).  I definitely say give it a try if you are searching for a moisturizing deep conditioner.

Ingredients: (NEW 7/9/12)
Water (Aqua) infused with Equisetum Maximum Lam (Horsetail), Mentha Piperita (Peppermint), Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary), Laurus Nobilis (Bay Leaf), Ocimum Basilicum (Basil), Arctium Lappa (Burdock Root), Althaea Officinalis (Marshmallow Root), Origanum Vulgare (Oregano), Cymbopogon Flexuosus (Lemongrass), Thymus Vulgaris (Thyme), Salvia Officinalis (Sage) and Urtica Dioica (Nettle); Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter, Soy Lecithin, Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate

Deep Conditioning w/ JessiCurl DCT

1. The hair have been deep conditioning for about an hour and a half
2. The hair after removing the cap & bag
3. The hair after removing the cap & bag (the curls were clumping together)
4. The hair was very soft & manageable, so I detangled the hair and plaited for washing
5. The hair was very moisturized and shiny after washing

**** I give this product a 5 out of 5 Baby Curls****

Product Review: Qhemet Biologics Aethiopika Hydrate & Twist Butter

Qhemet Biologics Aethiopika Hydrate & Twist Butter

Cost: $14.00 (www.qhemetbiologics.com)

Size: 5 oz.

Scent: Light Mango Scent
Consistency: Rich & Thick

What They Say:
Use this thick, rich butter to soften and maintain twists, braids and loose hair! Ideal for dry, highly porous hair! Use as a body butter too!

Softens thick, extra dry hair with an ultra rich blend of Pure Olive Oil, Mango Butter and Rice Bran Oil! A touch of plant wax helps reduce frizz and smooths edges and soy extract adds humectancy. Use sparingly. A little goes a long way.

What I Say:
This butter is amazing and smells really good.  I've used this product on and off since last July.  Its no surprise that I really enjoy QB products and this is NO exception!  This butter is very soft despite the initial appearance and it spreads very well in the hair.  It adds shine and moisture.  I get great results using this butter on damp and  dry hair (The Beginning of BG "S" Loc Journey).  This product is great for twists and gives excellent definition for twist outs.  It leaves the hair super soft and bouncy.  Although its only 5 oz., a little really does go along way, I still have my container from last year.  *Bonus: It doubles as a body butter!

Ingredients:
Olive (Olea europa) Oil, Mango (Mangifera indica) Butter and Rice (Oryza sativa) Oil Blend, Behenyl Esters, Cetyl Alcohol, Soy (Glycine soja) Extract, Plant (Euphorbia cerifera) Wax, Phthlate Free Fragrance

**** I give this product a 5 out of 5 Baby Curls****